In Depth Interview: Tahir Sultan
Shadow by Faye West
What sparked your interest in fashion?
My interest in fashion was sparked when I was around 14- I was very influenced by one dress in particular- it was in Madonna’s, vogue video. I thought how amazing if one can design clothes that make other people look so good - of course that notion has evolved over the years – and fashion has come to mean a lot more than just clothes- it’s about sculpture characters and personality – it’s about style, and ease, and confidence….
Where do you design from and at what time of day?
I am always designing ALWAYS- when I am grocery shopping – at a party, on a plane – always – I will see something remember something and then visually manipulate it to make it my own…. Or design and redesign it in my head. I am weird that way – but I usually know what it’s going to end up looking like OR the embryonic beginnings of experimentation…. where I will start with the physical pattern. There is a lot of trial and error, when pattern cutting but as I have mentioned in the past mistakes or different twists and turns along the way are what really make designing interesting.
Kiss by Faye West
Are there Middle Eastern aspects in your designs? Does your background affect your sense of style, image of it and/or designs?
Yes, my background has a huge influence on my designs, I am very conservative in my approach to how much skin shows, simply because the clothes sell in this part of the world, fashion is a business and I do find I work within boundaries, which is frustrating at times but also challenging. In terms of heritage yes my being half Kuwaiti and half Indian has had a huge impact on my clothes and their designs. I am always looking to re interoperate what exists and what is familiar.
What similarities, if any, are there in your collections? Is there something that shouts out Tahir Sultan? What makes Tahir Sultan unique?
I think they way in which I approach my clothes and how they are constructed is what makes them unique, they have a certain sculptural element about them that people are now beginning to recognize.
Bluebell Girls by Faye West
Faye West - Contributing Illustrator, visit www.fayewest.com
What did you study and where? Was it even fashion design or related to it? If so, did you focus on a certain aspect of fashion (accessories, textiles, etc)?
I studied fashion with knitwear at Central Saint Martins in London, however; I started my studies in Florence Italy studying art, which was an amazing experience. I then transferred to London and studied architecture at the architectural association, which was a serious challenge – and one that I did not enjoy- so dropped out in order to find myself. I moved to India and worked in the fashion industry, which taught me a lot about taking responsibility for myself and my work, as well as introducing me to a segment of the industry which I would never otherwise have known about and has stood me very solid ground. My years studying architecture strongly influenced my work and my clothes have a sculptural quality to them.
When did you know that designing clothes was what you wanted to do for the long-run? Was there someone who truly supported you along the way?
I was brought up in a very pragmatic family, my father was an architect my mother a landscape designer- our family is extremely well educated, and there was always an emphasis on do what you want to do, but makes sure you do it well and with integrity. I was always afraid to study fashion, as it is a very volatile difficult industry, and not easily turned into a successful business. I always knew I wanted to practice it, but in order to explore that avenue and to come to that decision; I had to do a lot of self-exploration as well. Studying it was not easy and I remember I lived in the library – I did all I could to just expand my mental imaginative horizons, practicing and designing is still a slow and challenging process.
Both my parents were very supportive of me, though I think they worried when I took that 2 year gap between colleges, when I initially left the Architectural association, my parents were very wary, I informed them that I wanted to go to Saint Martins to study fashion. I was told people did not just waltz into the best school of art in the world and with such ease, luckily for me I always find a formula that works that gets me where I need to go, so in the end the belief I had in myself plus their support along with that of my godmothers worked out for the best. I can sight a lot of people who were there for me and believed in me, because sometimes it is not so easy to believe in one’s self when the path one chooses to take is so against society’s grain.
Tell us a little bit about your latest SS 2011 collection. What inspired it? What does it symbolize and what is the message behind it? (describe fabrics used, shapes and cuts, etc).
Winter 2011 was and is a real turning point for me because it made me take a long hard look at my business model, as well as pushed me to explore fabrics, which I had not used in the past. The collection itself was loosely based on ballet – the black swan, and 1930’s smoking chic. But that led me to work with a lot of net feathers sequins and jersey – which has altered the direction and perception and the way in which I approach fashion. I now want clothes to be sculpted and clean and comfortable to a point where the person wearing them does not want to take them off. I am trying to introduce that less is more in terms of glamour; if one feels glamorous one is going to look glamorous.
Describe your take on fashion. How would you, briefly, describe your style? What is the iconic Tahir Sultan woman - what type of woman do you design for?
My take on fashion keeps changing – I have always believed in the difference between style and fashion; to me clothes are about style, they are a means of exploring one’s self, one’s personality. One should exude the character and person that one is. When I design clothes I always put a lot of my character into them, they have to complement the body as well as look good feel good and lift ones spirits. There is nothing quite like putting on a killer jacket or a dress which keeps the compliments coming.
The Tahir Sultan women is actually a women that has Balmain and carries Birkins, and has had so much exposure to main line - main stream fashion that something in her just snaps and she wants to be different and look different. In short, to not be generic. At the same time my ideal women is one who is smart with a strong personality who, dares to be different and avant guard and wants to stand out in a crowd in an elegant understated sort of way. I don’t have one woman in mind when I design but several and none, the collections are coherent in term of the stories they tell. There is no such thing as the perfect women – as perfection is unobtainable and over rated.
What is in your sketchbook?
My sketchbook….. GOD !!!! I don’t even have a sketchbook any more- my mind is my sketchbook- am constantly drawing on random bits of paper, that are all bunged together in a vintage leather folder. I doodle on napkins envelopes, anything. I’m inspired by so much around me that I can’t and to be honest I don’t have the time to put it all into one sketchbook. I am my own sketchbook – the clothes I wear, the way in which I put them together, my style inevitably, always leads to bits and pieces I design.
What has been the highlight of your career so far?
I am not sure what the highlight of my career has been, I enjoyed working with Galliano- I enjoy the photo shoots I get to do, and I have been in some high profile stores. I guess the highlight is the respect my work commands me as it is different and unique and that means a lot to me. Success is all-relative and I have not achieved so much of what I want to yet. It’s an interesting journey and I rather look to the future than look back
What difficulties have you faced and what have you done to try and overcome them? Have you faced challenges designing in Kuwait?
I have faced a lot of difficulties along the way in Kuwait and abroad, I started my label at the beginning of the recession, so financially the markets have been tough. Trying to get people to understand, execute or even find funding for my vision has been hard. There is a huge gap in the Middle East where by creative ideas are not viewed as having a monetary value, making it hard to get investors, or real support or backing to be able to grow the brand, the way one would like. Also people seem very happy with mediocrity and are extremely myopic which most times is something very difficult to deal with.
Describe a little the fashion world in Kuwait. What is its general outlook on fashion?
Fashion in Kuwait is very forward. People here travel a lot and are very well off, so have a lot of exposure. They are daring and playful in the way that they dress, so are willing to take fashion risks and try something new. People here like to get dressed up a lot so there are always opportunities to do new outfits or try out new styles. Kuwaiti women love fashion and adore shopping and a lot of them are very very stylish.
What fabrics do you love to work with and why? Are there certain colors you often use?
My new favorite fabric is jersey, but I love silks and plain white cotton shirts fabrics, I am starting to use a lot of color where by before I used to play it safe, i love using lace and net – but not in a conventional way one would…. I also like to work with knits. The knits I do are incredibly creative and fun.
Are there Middle Eastern aspects in your designs? Does your background affect your sense of style, image of it and/or designs?
Yes, my background has a huge influence on my designs, I am very conservative in my approach to how much skin shows, simply because the clothes sell in this part of the world, fashion is a business and I do find I work within boundaries, which is frustrating at times but also challenging. In terms of heritage yes my being half Kuwaiti and half Indian has had a huge impact on my clothes and their designs. I am always looking to re interoperate what exists and what is familiar.
What similarities, if any, are there in your collections? Is there something that shouts out Tahir Sultan? What makes Tahir Sultan unique?
I think they way in which I approach my clothes and how they are constructed is what makes them unique, they have a certain sculptural element about them that people are now beginning to recognize.
What designer do you look up to and why? Is there a designer you dream of meeting and what front row fashion show do you absolutely want to attend?
I love Alber Elvas for Lanvin, and I love Comme des Garcon. I don’t actually dream of sitting front row to any particular show or designer, people always have this view that fashion is super glamorous. The truth is it gets monotonous; it’s a lot of hard work and requires a huge amount of effort by all included. I have had the privilege of being backstage at designer’s shows like John Galliano, and many more and that is where the excitement/ craziness actually is. I go to shows to support my friends or to get an idea of which general direction fashion is moving in. I work around clothes all day long so I would much rather attend the fashion parties as they are more fun and are filled with different characters.
Tell us a little bit about your upcoming collection.
My summer collection focuses on jersey and the 1940’s and ——- well you’ll just have to wait till September to see. I am very excited by it.
And lastly, do you have any advice for fellow young designers, like you, and artists in general in Kuwait and in the Gulf?
The advice i have for young designers and artists is - dare to be- don’t be a sheep , take your talent make it your own and be true to what you believe in, culture is about educating people, and opening facets of their thought process. It’s about making a difference and introducing society to something new and individual… the road to success is not easy, but if one works hard with integrity courage and turns a deaf ear to criticism which has the ability to shatter ones confidence then you will go far. There are no such things as mistakes (i don’t always believe this) sometimes the valuable lessons that benefit one take a long time to see. Be patient cause as the saying goes ” Rome was not built in a day”.
Visit Tahir’s Website: http://www.tahirsultan.com for more information on him, his work, collections, stores and press. Also check him out on facebook at ‘Tahir Sultan Designs’ http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150191240528997.315939.115011043996#!/pages/Tahir-Sultan-designs/135545243164837 .
Illustrations contributed by Faye West. Faye was asked to interpret Tahir Sultan’s designs, style and work and come up with illustrations for it.
Visit her website to view her wonderful portfolio and find more information on the British illustrator, her work, achievements,collaborations and biography.
