Lako Bukia S/S12 London Fashion Week Day Two

Lako Bukia’s SS’12 collection showcased some highly structural pieces juxtaposed with more classically feminine, flowing chiffon and silk designs that were a strong feature of the show.

Particular attention was paid to detailing around the neck and shoulders, which gave the pieces a simple yet considered beauty; however the introduction of print may have been an error of judgement.  The chosen prints were garish and suffocated the architectural purity of the shapes, textures and cuts which were on display.

Words & Images by: Imogen Webb

Orla Kiely SS12 - LFW Day 1

Someone said on twitter she could have spent the entire day at the Orla Kiely presentation, and once there, I could totally relate to that feeling.Models came in and out posing in rotating pedestals or resting in sun loungers in a nonchalant manner, almost as if overwhelmed by a heatwave of a season that only belonged to the Portico Rooms of Somerset house.Everything was utterly wearable and feminine with very chic details. I felt in love with the accessories and the general aesthetic of the collection. Here’s a clip of the presentation. Hope you enjoy it.

Words & photos Mariana Moyano Menta 

Video clip by Righster

Sketchbook Magazine with Jefferson Hack and Jonny Johansson

One could definitely say that the Sketchbook team appearance at “Meeting the Designers” in Covent Garden was purely coincidental. After the last few day of plethoric fashion and a great deal of time working on writing pieces and organising the upcoming issue of Sketchbook Magazine, one wouldn’t think that on the eve of Monday the 20th of September we would all be swooning over Jefferson Hack.

Although trekking through London amidst Fashion Week chaos was a mean feat for our writers, we soon made it to the new Apple Store in Covent Garden to join in the audience for the interview; one of a three part session of designers meetings in New York, London and Paris; between Jefferson Hack and Jonny Johansson of Acne, one of the most reputable fashion brands worldwide. 

We have a conjoined fervour for Acne at Sketchbook Magazine and to be witness to the discussion of creative influence in such a degree catapulted our awareness to the most unbelievable limit. Jonny and Jefferson discussed the developmental characteristics as a brand in clothing, furniture and print; soon to even more we expect.

As a brand started by four youngsters in 1996, Acne has driven lengths in design; being the first to develop unisex denim and create a luxury brand with an effortless chic. Quoted as saying the following, “Fashion is the best form of self-expression. We like to design pieces that together form the coolest wardrobe, but is ultimately wearable. It becomes one way of thinking as individual pieces, but together creates a strong, modern and considered statement.”, we can see how Jonny Johansson and Acne as a creative collective have directed the fashion forecast to a whole other artistic dimension.

At the end of the question time and conclusion of the interview, Jefferson Hack disappeared into the mass of technology (apparently to meet some singer Bj¨rk or something, I don’t know) and left Jonny Johansson alone to face the eager crowd. As this would be classified as an opportunity “not-to-be-missed”, I took it upon myself to introduce myself to Jonny and sneak in a few questions.

What baffles me about public lifestyle is that people are often too perplexed to approach their idol; however, Jonny Johansson is ever so approachable. He seems very nonchalant about all he, and the brand which he runs, has achieved internationally in the fashion society. For a man that never studied design, Mr Johansson is sure in his personal and brand aspirations.

Acne is designed for someone who wants to have fun, a person who wants to develop their own individual style whilst still maintaining a certain whimsy. Jonny tells me that the inspiration for Acne design is ever-changing with a variety of influence, from Eastern culture to Star Trek Clone Wars. The most beneficial, as I assume to believe, is to see an individual wearing your design, as he quite nostalgically says to me. “There is no stress in Fashion Week”. Quite an unbelievable statement but made clear by the fact that the creative director of Acne loves what he does, creating an effortless design subject to the individual style of those who love to be seen and in-scene.

My interview ended in Jonny giving me a double low-five, a moment where at last I was apart of something rather extraordinary.

Thank you to Jonny Johansson and Jefferson Hack.

Familiarise yourself with one of the most prolific brands in fashion: ACNE

Watch the interview with Jefferson Hack and Jonny Johansson, creative Director of Acne: Meeting the Designer

Words: MEGAN McDOWELL

Images: MEGAN McDOWELL

Michael van der Ham - LFW SS’11

London Fashion Week saw the launch of many a designer’s solo show, one of whom was Michael van der Ham. Having spent the last two seasons under the umbrella of Fashion East, his show was one of the most anticipated moments, with reason.

Sketchbook was invited backstage to preview the collection and report from the back-of-house. When I arrived, I wasn’t the only one; models were flooding in having arrived from previous shows, whilst hair and make-up were working away against Hollywood-style bulb framed mirrors, nevertheless the backstage area seemed calm and on-schedule for a prompt start.

MAC products was used on the models and make-up suprema, Hannah Murray directed the beauty looks for the show. “We’re doing a semi-circle of yellow for the eyes, using MAC chromoline product to create gorgeous haloes of sunshine, against pearly-effect skin and a relaxed cream blusher” she told me, “we wanted the models to look like they have healthy skin and keep the look simple”, “we’re just using mascara on the top lashes and we’re using MAC face + body cream for the body to give a healthy glow.” The look was focused on the mimosa yellow eyes, which were chosen to highlight the collection, which followed a palette of autumnal shades.

After a few backstage Krispy Kremes and some very unreadable notepad jotting, I was in the waiting lounge eating more food. This time lunch; mushroom and chicken soup served by the Topshop Cafe.

The collection followed true to Van Der Ham’s colourful collage aesthetic, but with less fuss and more of a grown-up vibe. Deep violets, hot pinks, olives and muted blues made the colour palette, which was featured in every material known to fashion editor. Velvet patterns highlighted chiffon drapes and structured silk bodices, whilst long silky trousers sat beneath architectural collage tops. I was especially drawn to the chartreuse velvet sandals, which also came in light sky blue editions and had oversized laces tied in suitable oversized bows.

After the show editors were raving about the jewellery , which was made up of bundles of swarovski crystals in bright shades of colour. Sarah Harris, my seating neighbour, told me that the long willowy trousers would surely be featured in Vogue under her watch, and possibly her wardrobe.

But out of all of the crafted dresses, it was the final look which stole the show, a large billowing evening dress with a white silk and rose body with crystal embroidery and a hypnotising dark purple chiffon trail.

WORDS: Osman Ahmed

IMAGES: Osman Ahmed

Designers Remix by Charlotte Eskildsen

The beauty of London Fashion Week being held at a venue as grand as Somerset House is that with so many levels and rooms to explore, it’s inevitable that you will stumble across designers you’ve never heard of and shows that you never intended to see. This is precisely what happened when we headed towards the Portico rooms and came across Designers Remix by Charlotte Eskildsen.

Her unusually constructed collection, titled “Liquid Sky”, featured exquisitely draped, off-the-shoulder dresses and tunics, asymmetric necklines and billowing sleeves all inspired by cloud formations in the sky. The theme of ‘softness’ was carried through even in the heavier fabrics, as shown best by the black suede jacket with a waterfall front fastening.

Eskildsen’s collection is the epitome of sophisticated elegance with edge. The contrast between the use of luxury fabrics and 3-D tailoring ensures that this Danish designer is going to have a very interesting future in the fashion industry.

words: NAVNEET GILL

images: MEGAN MCDOWELL

Mary Katrantzou - LFW SS’11

An 08:30 collection preview is not looked forward to by most fashion editors, but when I was invited to preview Mary Katrantzou’s SS11 collection backstage before her show, I was more than happy to set the alarm early and down a quick coffee. 

As soon as I got into the backstage area, I spoke to senior make-up artist Val Garland who used Mac cosmetics for the show. “The look is centred upon icey blue eyes, pink lips and a natural face” she told me “I wanted it to be frosty, but not shiny. It’s all matt”. As for the hair, “The hair is scarped back with a low ponytail just below the crown” said hairstylist Stephen Low, “Really simple and very chic.”

Shortly after snacking on the variety of pastries backstage I got a chance to talk to Mary, who guided me through the collection. “I was mainly inspired by surrealism and Renee Margritte, but also pictures from ‘World of Interiors’ and ‘Architectural Digest’”, she said. “I loved the idea of whether it was a room in a woman or a woman in a room.”

The show was the second show to be held at the Topshop space in Waterloo and the first standalone show for Katrantzou, with the collection titled ‘Ceci n’est pas une chambre’, translating to ‘This is not a room’.

It wasn’t. Instead it was fitted dresses, short skirts and tailored jackets, each depicting 70s-inspired rooms and furniture. Mini crinis were designed to look like vintage lampshades, with tassels, crystals and beads dripping from the hems. Streaks of chiffon and tassels emerged from sides of the dresses, each of which was perfectly symmetrical in print and cut. 

The jewellery, in true Katrantzou style, was over-sized and statemental. Large metal and crystal candle wicks sat at the busts of models, fitting in perfectly with the intricate prints. However the shoes were less busy, models walked in two-toned, straw platform-wedges in a palette of sorbet lemon, hot pink, mint green, light tangerine and sky blue. 

Finale walk of the show

Anna Dello Russo studies the collection after the show

Louise Wilson and Sarah Mower

“I love the collection” said Harriet Quick, fashion features director of British Vogue, “Her use of print was so cleverly engineered and she definitely been a highlight of the week.” I can only agree.

WORDS AND IMAGES: Osman Ahmed

Sketchbook meets Bryce Aime

Since debuting in London during the S/S09 season, Bryce Aime has created an electric ripple effect of unique fashions.

Inspired by the work of Thierry Mugler and the mantra ‘his woman and his world’, Bryce moved to London to study at the prestigious Central Saint Martin’s University. Aime worked with Jasmine Di Milo before creating his own collection in 2009, an array of design pieces that soon caught the eye of Marie Claire as well as Rihanna, seen in her music video for “Hard”.

Taking a great interest in architecture and developing design technicalities that don’t restrict the womanly figure, Bryce Aime converts male “dominated” clothing into something created for the woman, something he says he would love if he, himself, was a female.

Featured previously in Sketchbook, Bryce speaks to us on the succession of his design in S/S11 and what makes him want to create the ultimate in fashion.

 Bryce speaks knowledgeably about his collection and creative ideals. This season his collection was based on the Beijing Opera, noticeable in the kimono inspired jackets and cherry blossom prints. His shoes were a key piece in his S/S11 collection, a sculptural phenomenon that kept the eyes of the audience lowered. They too were designed for the Beijing Opera, but cooly converted to aid the models in walking down the runway unscathed.

Made in micro-fibre and cotton, Bryce aimed to create a collection that was young and colourful, yet durable and non-restrictive. The colour palette of his most recent collection was large variety of reds and greens with cream coloured hues that complimented the cherry blossom print design on the leggings, something he says is the new denim.

Other than his eclectic design, Aime says his show-stoppers are his head pieces and wild “fascinators” shown on the catwalk during LFW. The models wore a varied range of delicate structures and untamed bird feathers that sprouted from their hair ties.

A real breath of fresh air in fashion, Bryce Aime brings a new delight into the fashion colossal. We expect an ever changing variety of design from Bryce and expect to hear more of him soon, if you already haven’t.

Words: MEGAN McDOWELL

Images: MEGAN McDOWELL

http://www.bryce-danice-aime.com/

Interview with Sophie Gittins - Shoe designer

We spotted Sophie Gittins’ stand in the On/Off exhibiton space at LFW from a mile off. Intrigued by the only footwear designer on display, we just had to find out more about her and her amazing designs.

Where are you from?

I’m originally from Essex, but I lived in central whilst studying Cordwainers at London College of Fashion.

Studying at LCF what did you experience gain?

Whilst studying I was hand picked by Manolo Blahnik, Collin McDowell and Rupert Sanderson as a finalist for Fashion Fringe Shoe award, which was an amazing experience and opportunity to even be apart of. After graduating with First Class Honours from such a prestigious course and having several amazing experiences within the industry I decided to launch my own footwear label, Sophie Gittins.

Since starting your label, what has been the rewarding piece of press you have received?

Since my debut in 2009, I have been lucky enough to receive international press from Vogue.com, Style.com, The Independent and British Elle.

Why did you choose to work with footwear? Was it always something you wanted to do?

I have always been fascinated by shoe design. Whilst at school, I read about the cordwainers course at LCF and from then on I knew there was no other option. That was what I wanted to do.

Who are your personal favourite shoe designers?

I  have an endless list of favourites whose work I have always admired. However, the ones that stand out to me personally are Pierre Hardy, Bruno Frisoni, Andre Perugia and obviously, Manolo Blahnik.

What is the inspiration behind your latest collection?

For this collection I looked at illustrations that Edward Bawden had created for the windows of Fortnum and Mason in the 1950s. I had found out Edward Bawden is actually from the village that I now live in and I wanted to draw inspiration from someone local to me.

Interview by: NAVNEET GILL, AMY EDGAR AND SELINA LALLI.

Images: sophiegittins.com

Charles Anastase SS11

As a longstanding fan of Charles Anastase and his nostalgia-tinted designs, I was thrilled when I had the opportunity to attend his show this LFW for Sketchbook. After slight mishaps that involved me getting lost on the London streets and almost losing a shoe as I ran as fast as my poor little legs allowed, I finally made it to the venue on New Oxford Street, gasping for breath, with just a little more than a few minutes to spare.

The first thing that hit me as I entered MBF was the minimalistic set. Gleaming white with a few potted plants, the understated yet chic little garden was an intriguing choice of backdrop for one who is known for his playful and quaintly eccentric pieces. As the lights dimmed and the whimsical French music began, the garden set was animated by beautiful models with messy, razor-cut Jane Birkin hairdos and oversized geeky glasses striding down the catwalk in skyscraper platforms.

Super-sheer fabrics dominated the catwalk in the form of willowy dresses, high-waisted trousers and elegant blouses, ranging in colour from a muted apricot to pale blues. Adorned with delicately layered, ruffled collars, diamante buttons and cat brooches, the pieces were typical of Anastase’s quintessentially feminine demeanor.

A welcome contrast against the flowing chiffon pieces came in the form of short-sleeved Peter Pan collared jackets with oversized pockets. In statement whites and blacks, they added an edge to the otherwise dainty collection.

Standout pieces included a barely-there dress embellished with scattered floral pieces and a structured coat in a lustrous metallic silver.

SS11 may have exuded a bit more ‘grown-up’ sophistication than his previous collections but it still retained that quirky, offbeat touch that has become characteristic of Anastase’s work.

words: NAVNEET GILL

photos: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com (via style.com)

LONDON FASHION WEEK SS11 - Spijkers en Spijkers

After getting a bit lost in the streets of West London and stressed to miss the next show, we finally got to On/Off and see Spijkers en Spijkers’s SS11 collection. We luckily got some seats while some others had to stand to watch the collection. And there was a reason why everyone wanted to see the show.

Inspired by the song written by Nick Cave and performed with Kylie Minogue - “Where the wild roses grow”. It all felt fresh with young and fair-skin models and wavy hair-do going down the catwalk and charming with the different use of colours and textures palette.

Delicately revealing parts of the body with cut-out panels dresses, blouses or with short skirts and dresses, it was as if they were coming from their search for Elisa Day or roses to the city. The collection was full of innocence but still had a great touch of femininity.

And each pieces were finely finished with details - fabric folded roses, laces and beaded embroideries. And if the roses were not in the print or lace, it would be there, with the bright scarlet red dress and skirt.

Spijkers en Spijkers brought us a lovely and elegant selection that can be worn by any women of any age.

Words: LAURA SAM

Images: GOMEZ DE VILLABOA